Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Last day in Phnom Penh and we only had a few items on the agenda, one of which included sweating through our shirts.

Wat phnom. Only a $1 for foreigners to poke their heads inside.




Recognize anything here, Mom?


I know this looks familiar, though it's about half the size.


Here's the big brand new US embassy built over the old Cercle Sportif. A Cambodian guard outside the walls then whistled to say that pictures aren't allowed. I guess that doesn't extend to google...

...because google drove a car with a camera on it around the whole place. But people can't take a picture from across the street. Super.




A quick stop at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, formerly known as Le Phnom, or Hotel Phnom after 1971

(the original look didn't differ vastly from the present, as seen in this dated photo inside the lounge)

After that, and 2 pints of sweat less each, we had walked down Sisowath Quay and reached the renowned FCC Hotel, with much of its original interior. 

 A great view of the Mekong from this main floor table. A pitcher of Angkor beer and small plans about extending our trip for another week were discussed.


Upstairs on the upper level, also open air, another bar, looks very original.













We went past the Royal Palace, normally open for tours but not today, and grabbed a tuk tuk back to the hotel for a nap and to pack up for the airport tomorrow.
Plans to extend trip put to rest after brief reality check.

chum reap leah!!!

Monday, October 27, 2014

Kampot and Kep. Sunday and Monday.

Phnom Penh to Kampot?
Giant Ibis Minibus, $8, 3 hours to the southwest, depending on how actively the driver tries to pass the tuk tuks and freight trucks. Mom, you'd have had your foot on the dashboard for most of it. Thankfully, The Hunger Games was playing on a monitor with no volume to distract.

 Highway 3 to Kampot...



Beautiful day, hot as hell though...


The river across from our hotel, The Rikitikitavi, owned by a nice expat couple.


The city is an old colonial resort town. Some of the remnants are still here.

 


We headed out today, Monday, to the salt fields. The channel seawater in to these leveled areas over and over until they have a thick salt layer. 



Inside the salt storage cabin. Strong craving for butter and popcorn.



Soon off the beaten path, though, as we headed towards the Phnom Chngork Caves northeast of Kampot on a very dirt road.





The caves were inhabited before the Khmers by the Funan. More recently though the Khmer Rouge set up shop here. The mines were only cleared in 1985 and the stairs put in the last decade.




The temple is supposed to be older than  Angkor Wat, according to our guide, though we have strong suspicion that those are bricks and we simply misunderstood...

We hopped back in the tuk tuk down some very rough road, credit to our driver, and headed for the Kampot Pepper Plantation.

 Lakeside village...


The Kampot Pepper Plantation grows unique pepper to the region. Black, red, and white pepper are created by picking time and processing. 


 They use cuttings from older vines to start new ones around structures like these brick towers. It can take 2-4 years before pepper can be cultivated with the appropriate flavor. 















Saturday, October 25, 2014

Return to Phnom Penh

Goodbye to Siem Reap, and our very wonderful driver, Sambath.



We checked out of The Villa Siem Reap and hopped on a turboprop back to rainy Phnom Penh...

 Skies over Phnom Penh...





We moved back into our originally-intended hotel, Frangipani Villa-90s. Wonderful view, newly renovated. I really wish this was where we could have stayed the whole time...


We checked out the Cambodia National Museum for about an hour before they closed...





Afterwards we walked down the street to a restaurant recommended by our friend Lauren, called Friends. Great food, and another Cambodia beer, this one called "Anchor". Whether it's intended to confuse itself with "Angkor" beer we'll leave to the courts.









Friday, October 24, 2014

Friday, Angkor Wat, Barun, and Tomb Raider

We had debated going very early to the Angkor Wat temple for the sunrise, but decided 5:30a was perhaps too early a departure. In hindsight it turned out to be a good decision, as early morning downpours would have made it a pointless doing.


By 8.30a the tour buses and minivans were already coming in. Full marks to our Siem Reap tuk tuk driver, Sambath, for his impeccable driving under pressure today.

The temples were crowded with tourists. Sort of took the edge off the grandeur, in my opinion, but the weather was nice for shooting; overcast with soft light. A nice couple from Newcastle-via-Kuala Lumpur explained that the morning moistures on the stones was fantastic for pulling the details out of the temples facades. They were on their third day at the complex.

The stone walkway to the Angkor Wat complex.



This portico (right word?) is part of the initial entrance to the complex itself. I spent about 20 minutes photographing in here before Dad pointed out that maybe I should save some for the big show.


This was the main course, and fortunately there was a Japanese tour group posing for a photo as I took this. Thank you.

I'm fairly certain we saw this guy at the hotel bar last night...


Norm, my dad wanted to know if you wanted a few of these for your driveway. 


The reliefs along the outer walkway of the Angkor Wat temple were once covered in gold, apparently, accoridng to my Newcastle0cum-Kuala Lumpur transplant friends. We didn't see those two again, but I hope they stayed hydrated, he was sweating like a spigot. 


Mom I know you and Dad have a charcoal relief of part of this relief somewhere, but they were very extensive and impossible to photograph them all.




Within the temple there's a central terrace/courtyard that rises to a higher level...



Up another steep staircase, the uppermost temple was accessible. It was quite a climb and was the part of the temple that required no hat, long pants, and shoulders covered out of respect. So needless to say, I had to throw a few layers on over my European-style bikini to be allowed access up.






Our driver asked if we wanted to go to the next temple complex, and not to be perceived as makeweights, we agreed. Initially we reached this decision with a degree of skepticism. We'd spent nearly two hours in the heat around one temple; to have several more complete complexes to visit seemed daunting. But does the man above look like a quitter? Onwards! 

Our tuk tuk driver took us ten minutes to the next complex, Angkor Tom, to the northwest, through this lovely stone gate. Achtung: beware of school children on bikes, they have very little fear of cars or tuk tuks.



They were almost as bold as these fellows we passed...


Angkor Tom is sprawling, indeed it was where the king took his residence, so we decided to focus just on the first temple, Bayon. 


BAYON


Although rebuilding was underway, and elements of a previous ceremony were still being removed, it was much quieter and very beautiful.

Guys like these bored gentlemen checked tickets at every temple, and when asked to show ours, I said "Wat Ticket?" He replied: "The ticket for the temple." I didn't bother to explain. Perhaps it wasn't funny.



This one's for Norm. See? Not all governments are restrictive. Cambodia lets you fall down and break your neck in their state parks...

TOMB RAIDER



Experts on Angelina Jolie would recognize the last Angkor temple we visited, Ta Prohm. famous for not just for Tomb Raider shooting there, but it's also famous for the 400 hundred and 700 hundred year old spung trees that have grown over the walls...







This guy walked up to us and wanted to show me every setup that the Tomb Raider production made. He really knew where all the good angles were. Oddly, he made a quick exit when security approached him. A slow-speed chase took place as he walked around a corner with uniforms in tow. The guard came back with our informal guide's flip-flops in his hands.









After that, it was back to the Villa Siem Reap Hotel for lunch; an Angkor Beer and some Pho Bo soup.